It was a bit of an odd one tonight at Egerton. I hadn't been planning to come as I was on babysitting duty but the girls were keen to come with me and I was happy to come and take a few pictures. The girls had a brilliant time playing in the nature reserve.
When we arrived, Elliot King was on his own setting up a fixed rope in Cherry Bomb. After climbing the route he stopped the rope and set about attempting an onsight of the classic Silk Cut E2 5c. He pulled boldly and strenuously up the thin cracks, placing some surprisingly good gear where it looked like there was no opportunity for protection. He completed what looked like the crux and latched the horizontal break at the top of the slab. A combination of the dusty holds and the ever increasing pump proved too much and he succumbed, sagging onto the gear for a well earned rest. After a quick shake out he promptly dispatched the rest of the route. A bold effort.
I hadn't planned on climbing but soon realised that I was going to have to attempt following him up this desperate struggle. Luckily Ian Selby and Sandra Hancock arrived and came to the rescue. I quickly convinced Ian to take my place and breathed a sigh of relief as I prepared to climb an easy one with Sandra. While Ian cruised up Silk Cut (I use the term 'cruised' loosely), I realised I'd sandbagged myself. There was a reason Crack VD didn't get any stars. Although the climbing was easy, there is naff all protection and many of the holds are held in place by gravity alone. I nervously fumbled my way to the top placing two dubious runners. My toil must have put Sandra off as she let Ian take over. As he topped out, Ian's expression told me he'd enjoyed the route as much as me.
Meanwhile, we were joined by Matt Harris at his first meet. Side note to Matt, the meets are usually much better than this! Matt jumped on Eliot's rope up Silk Cut before picking Nocturnal Crack VS 4c as his lead. I tried to warn him that despite having 2 stars I had found it a dirty, desperate sandbag. Fair play to Matt though, he certainly gave it everything, taking an impressive whipper towards the top. Elliot took over and completed the climb with Ian cleaning the gear.
I had to leave at this point so I'm not sure if anything else got done. Probably not though as the midges arrived as I was leaving.
I've made some minor switches to the calendar so next Tuesday's meet is at Stronstrey Bank. I've never climbed here before but I'm assured it's a beautiful venue with stunning views. Hopefully I'll see you there.
Good evening, my Uncle used to be part of this club some years ago, unfortunately he passed away recently. Would the club or any of its members be interested in some of his old books? Looks like a lot of club history in some of the journals. Thanks ... See MoreSee Less